WHERE LEOPARDS MOVE IN THE NIGHT

Southern Africa is so strongly associated with images of the Big Five and stories from the deepest bush, that it is suprising to encounter something totally different and beautiful when you least expect it. Nyika National Park in north of Malawi is one of these amazing places, where you look at the scenery - the valleys, mountains and forests - and it does not necessarily say "Africa" at all, until you see the silhouette of a Roan antelope in the distance.

I travelled to Nyika Plateu in October 2010. It is quite a long journey, as the distance from Lilongwe is at least 10 -12 hours driving, if done in one day (in Malawi distances are measured in hours travelled, not in kilometers, since the journey depends on the condition of the road). But I took the slow route and stayed one night at Chintheche Inn first (only 4 1/2 hours from Lilongwe along the Northern Lakeshore road). The journey continued early the next morning for the six hour stretch to Nyika and the final destination, Chelinda.

The North is not as densly populated as the South. After Rumphi, the last 120 km long dirt road was practically empty. It is not bad during the dry season, but it can offer an interesting challenge to any 4 x 4 driver during the rains, when mud is the main feature.

It is possible to fly up to Nyika, but I am glad I didn't: to see how dramatically the scenery changed from bush to forest and the -finally - to see the huge open valley from the road, was well worth the effort.

Nyika has a huge variety of plants and trees. January-February is said to be the best time for orchid spotting.

On arrival to Chelinda, we passed a pine tree forest. Very tall trees, 20 metres long at least, and pinecones everywhere. The temperature was several degrees cooler than Lilongwe, a welcome relief from the constanst dry season heat of +35 Celcius every day in the capital. Up in Nyika, the air also felt thinner - after all, Nyika Plateau is 2500 m above the sea level. At first I could not walk even a short distance without being short of breath, but this passed quite quickly.

I had a peculiar feeling when looking around the vast, massive, open space: whatever was important when leaving the Big City, was not important anymore. I also noticed something else. It was very quiet. So much so, that it was almost like being part of a sensory deprivation exercise. No sound at all, apart from very strong wind during the night and early next morning.

Gin and tonic tastes the best out in the open, just before the sunset...

Roan antelopes look rather majestic patrolling the valley.

On an evening game drive with Malawian guides Sam and Mike, we drove at a leisurely pace, stopping here and there - saw large herds of roan and eland antelopes and zebras before it was time for the sundowners. No elephants this time. However, there was something we all wanted to see, if possible: a leopard. Sam mentioned that he had seen one leopard with cubs near the airstrip. After sunset, we headed to that direction. We were quite close to the airstrip when we saw it - a beautiful leopard, totally relaxed (yawning actually!), hugging a tree stump. We watched it several minutes and it could not have cared less if we were there or not. We drove a bit further and another nocturnal animal was spotted trying to hide in the grass - a cerval cat.

Not the best of shots, but nevertheless, a leopard!

Back to Chelinda Lodge. I woke up around 4 am. The fire had gone out of the fireplace, it was dark, very quiet and - frankly - a bit spooky. I had a look out of the window of my room to the khonde and there was a very big owl sitting comfortably on the rail. It was too dark to see which owl it was, but I have never seen one so close.
It is difficult to explain, why Nyika should not be just another memory of yet another interesting place to visit in Malawi. But it is unique and different. So unlike any other place I have visited here. It is calling me to come back...